San Antonio Riverwalk Expansion

East meets West.

This phrase is usually meant to point out two contrasting entities that are blended into a harmony.

Nowhere is this more literal than in the city of Istanbul.  First Byzantium, then Constantinople, Istanbul has been a global crossroads for nearly all of the civilized history of the world.

Rob and I honeymooned in this exotic city twelve years ago.  I can still smell the spices of the Iskender kabobs, remember the alabaster bathrooms of the Dolmabahce Palace, and hear the prayers sung from the minarets of the mosques.  But my very, very favorite memory of Istanbul was riding on a boat on the Bosporus River.  You see, Istanbul lies on two continents.  Half of the city is in Europe, and half of the city is in Asia. 

East meets West.  This contrast, this blending of cultures was so apparent as we sailed along.  To my left, Europe.  To my right, Asia.  Fascinating. 

Contrasts are captivating to me, and they follow my life.  I enjoyed sitting on the remote banks of the Susquehanna River when I lived in Pennsylvania, and yet I was equally comfortable walking down 5th Avenue in New York City.  I love homes where colored walls meet crisp, white trim.   My iPod will play Mozart, followed by U2.

So, I was pleasantly surprised today when we discovered a new contrast in San Antonio - the Riverwalk Expansion.   

Now, contrast is not new to San Antonio, which is part of why I like it.  The flair of the Mexican culture blends with the rigidity of the German culture.  (I'm German, so I can say that.)  The historic Alamo stands in the shadow of the towering buildings of the modern age. 

The Riverwalk is perhaps the biggest contract.  Locals meet tourists.  The serenity of the river is mixed with the liveliness of the restaurants. 

Today, we drove to Pearl Brewery and parked near the start of the main part of the expansion.  I was just looking forward to a nice walk with my family.  But, I walked away with an even deeper love of my city.

The first sound you hear is the rushing of water.  A wide waterfall borders a circular area, meant for river taxis to do their turn-arounds.  As you walk on, the river narrows just a bit, and resembles what you know of the original Riverwalk - sidewalks on either side.

But, the comparisons stop there.  This part of the Riverwalk is quiet, a haven for cyclists and walkers.  Tourists are not stopping to read menus and look for directions.  This is the local's Riverwalk.

The first contrast that is apparent to me is the newness and crispness of this expansion, surrounded by the older, industrial part of San Antonio.  Staring with the Pearl Brewery - itself, a reincarnation, the River is flanked by a parking lot of semi trucks, backs of commercial buildings, windows broken on abandoned buildings.  But, instead of being ugly, the scene is one of harmony between nature and industry.  It is the mix of the guts of the city with the spirit of the city.

As we turn the corner, we see see a concrete, fairytale-like grotto, with yet another waterfall.  We sit on a bench, and feel like we are in a cave.  This is the $3.5 million project of local artist Carlos Cortes, a favorite of mine.  His work can also be seen at La Cantera - the tree-like tables outside of the food court, and the Easter Island heads at the playground, as well as the bus stop outside of Central Market and many other places in the city.

He has outdone himself with the grotto.

The next art project is a school of colorful sunfish under the freeway.  Hung by cables, and illuminated from within at night, the fish give the feel of being under the water, at one with nature.  This is an amazing feat for a highway overpass.  I love the contrast and the surprise.

A little further down, we we encounter a tunnel of sound, playing the music of birds in a rainforest, and another underpass full of color and mirror-like strips.  We walk past the San Antonio Museum of Art, the home of indoor art, surrounded by outdoor art. 

The kids are getting tired at this point, so we end our walk near the locks.  I convince them to sit and wait for the river taxis to come by so that we can watch them in the "boat elevators".  Twenty minutes later, not one, but TWO boats came by and entered the locks at the same time.  As one boat descended slowly and headed towards downtown, another one rose towards us and made its way back to the Pearl Brewery.

And, so did we. 

Our afternoon was a wonder of sights, sounds, contrasts, and an even deeper pride for our city.  With the San Antonio Riverwalk Expansion, this city is embracing art and nature, and making an even bigger place for itself on the map.  I look forward to coming back soon and discovering more.

Click here to learn about taking a River Taxi ride.